Rich Iranians partied as their countrymen died

Rich Iranians fled to parties and nightclubs in Turkey to avoid being targeted in the protests that engulfed Iran.

The province of Van, in far-eastern Turkey, shares a mountainous border with Iran, making it a popular holiday destination for Iranians looking to party.

Despite the chaos at home – where more than two weeks of protests had been halted by deadly force and a total communications blackout – The Telegraph witnessed elite Iranians gathering to drink, socialise and party in Van city.

Locals said that in recent days, wealthy Iranians – some said to support the Islamic regime – had arrived in Turkey to escape the political instability, fearing the protesters might turn on them as well.

“These people benefit from the regime,” one Iranian said of the partygoers, asking to remain anonymous over fear of regime retribution. 

“They left Iran for now because they were worried about staying there. Here, they can feel safe. They have made a lot of money from their businesses in Iran, and then they come here to spend it.”

Club patrons described a different experience of Iran over the last few weeks from that of the protesters.

One said she had spoken to relatives three days ago during her holiday in Turkey – while millions of Iranians were unable to get online or call friends and family because of a nationwide internet shutdown.

She chatted about the international company she ran with her husband between Iran and Turkey, while smoking hookah – known as nargile in Turkey – and sipping vodka.

Other Iranians leaving the country, however, told The Telegraph of mass killings, worried that the true death toll had reached tens of thousands.

So far, HRANA, a US-based human rights group, has verified 3,090 deaths, including 2,885 protesters, and more than 22,000 arrests. Other groups say the toll could be even higher.

In a rare move on Saturday, Ali Khamenei, Iran’s supreme leader, acknowledged that there had been deaths, though he accused the US and Israel of fomenting the unrest, leading to casualties.

Some Iranians had fled the country after loved ones were imprisoned. Links to people deemed unsavoury by the government could lead them to be targeted by association.

“It’s so insulting,” said one Iranian, referring to the partygoers. “Imagine if, in your country, thousands of people had been killed. Would you have the heart to go out dancing in a bar?”

One night out at the club – admission, drinks, snacks, nargile – could easily cost more than the average monthly salary in Iran, which is about £75.

That some people can afford to travel abroad and savour nights out in the town underscores the vast socio-economic gap within the country – one reason merchants first took to the streets in late December, triggering mass protests.

Soaring inflation has exacerbated poor economic conditions. Water, electricity and gas cuts have become more frequent, making daily life challenging for an increasing part of the population.

Last year alone, HRANA recorded at least 2,294 protests across all 31 provinces. Most were related to economic concerns, with demonstrations organised by unions or workers over unpaid salaries or financial fraud.

Experts say the government crackdown on the protests – along with its internet shutdown – will hurt the economy further, disrupting businesses. Every hour of the internet blackout costs Iran about $1.5m (£1.1m), according to NetBlocks, an internet monitor.

Even those who do not work online themselves are affected, such as drivers who deliver goods from online orders, because such transactions are not happening.

Failing to address economic concerns means protests could start again, and human rights organisations worry that the regime could continue its heavy-handed violence to stop them.

In the past, the regime has been cautious over exercising extreme force, given the risk of further galvanising protesters and angering the wider public.

This time around, it was willing to use serious brutality in order to stay in power and crack down on dissent.

Thus it is no surprise that many Iranians say they support the US taking stronger action – specifically to assassinate regime leaders and top security officials – which they say could afford the public an opportunity to rise up again and push for change.

But they are disappointed that Donald Trump, the US president, seems to be rethinking that idea after a flurry of diplomatic activity led by Middle Eastern nations concerned that unilateral military action would roil the region.

“Trump encouraged us to act, to stay in the streets,” said one Iranian merchant. “But now we’re disheartened because nothing happened.”

Regime change, however, seemed a remote possibility within the club walls as the DJ put on yet another pounding beat, prompting more people to join the dance floor.

In Van, so many Iranians visit – some marrying Turks and settling there – that cafes and restaurants have menus in Farsi and serve Persian cuisine. Most are concentrated near one street, decorated with rainbow umbrellas, in downtown Van.

“They’re very rich – they don’t care about what happens,” said an Iranian tea merchant of the elite Iranians who party in the city. “They want to stay in power, and keep making money. They are out of touch with the general public.”

“But us poor people – we come here to sell eggs, tea, just to earn a little more. All of us are really afraid of the regime.”

[Source: Daily Telegraph]